Herb-stuffed poussin

The ‘received gastronomic wisdom’ is that these small birds are rather naff, somehow not in the forefront of food fashion. This has not always been the case; during the 1970s they were the last word in culinary chic. Mario and Franco’s Trattoria served them allo diavolo, spatchcocked and grilled. Various French restaurants served them with the full panoply of sauces. I prepared them at L’Escargot with this interesting stuffing inserted under their skin, which certainly improved their rather