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6
Medium
Published 1999
At the risk of boring you by banging on about long defunct food shops in Soho, I want to talk about W. Fenn and Son in Frith Street. They were a specialist poulterer and game dealer, and the manager Ernie taught me a great deal about pheasants, partridges and all the other wonderful feathered game this island is so blessed with. He was an expert at hanging game and preparing it for the table, skills that are not around any more. His beautifully barded and trussed pheasants made cooking this