Cold salmon or sea trout

Cold poached salmon is rather out of fashion, probably due to a collective memory of overcooked, slightly stale fish clad in tired cucumber scales sulking at us from buffet and wedding breakfast plates. When done with a fine wild fish and eaten as soon as possible, this dish is the spirit of British summer. I cannot stress the ‘eaten as soon as possible’ enough; cooked salmon alters dramatically when you refrigerate it. The natural oiliness of the fish is changed by the cooking process and