I learnt about sushi and sashimi by the simple expedient of spending a lot of time, and money, sitting at the bar in Ajimura and a long-defunct restaurant in Brewer Street. The chef at the latter showed me how to make this with grilled salmon skin; when I started to serve it at Frith Street, I used some of the salmon flesh as well, possibly to cover the deficiencies in my rice-cooking technique. The then Japanese ambassador visited my restaurant several tim
