This was one of the most popular puddings served at L’Escargot when I was chef there in 1982. The date is indicative, it’s a long time ago, and this style of pâtisserie has gone rather out of fashion, which is a huge shame because it is easy and fun to make and exceptionally delicious. The base recipe is stolen from
The best mould to cook this pastry in is a springform cake tin (
This recipe makes one large cake enough for ten servings. I don’t recommend cutting the quantities down because for some reason it doesn’t work very well if you do.
You might like to use a mixer for this recipe because the dough requires 15 minutes’ beating.
Dissolve the yeast and sugar in the tepid water, stirring thoroughly. Add the flour and salt, 2 of the eggs, and beat until a smooth paste is achieved. Now add the third egg and, still beating, gradually pour in the milk. Beat this dough for about 8 minutes until it becomes smooth and elastic. Add the softened butter in small pieces, then beat for a further 5 minutes to incorporate. Let the dough rest, covered with a damp cloth, for 30 minutes, by which time the yeast will be working and the dough will be rising.
Brush the mould with
Bake the savarin for 20 minutes. It is cooked when a knife inserted into the middle comes out clean. Turn out of the mould as soon as possible and leave to cool for a few minutes.
While the savarin is baking, bring the water and sugar for the syrup to the boil. Make sure all the sugar is dissolved by stirring. Allow to cool
Carefully lift the rather fragile savarin out of the soaking dish and transfer to your chosen serving plate. Sprinkle the cake with the remaining
Make a Chantilly cream by simply whisking the cream with the sugar. Be very careful not to overwhisk. If you do, it will bear a close resemblance to butter – indeed it is half-way to butter – and it will also be sickeningly rich. A useful tip is to include
Fill the well in the cake with this cream then mound with the fresh raspberries.
© 1999 Alastair Little. All rights reserved.