Spicy, garlicky, lemony, herby sardines on toast

Some people find the idea of tinned oily fish a little off-putting, as if a tin of sardines is no better than glorified cat food and should be avoided. With respect, I disagree. Sardines, mackerel and anchovies are essential staples in any decent cook’s cupboard, and I’ve lost count of the times one of them has come to the rescue when I’ve been too tired to cook anything elaborate.

Buy the best tinned fish you can afford – supermarket own-brand ones are usually great, and for a trea