A heavenly soup that is a seeming contradiction in styles because it is informal but made with luxurious, costly dried morels. When buying morels, try to choose the smallest ones. They are pleasanter to eat in this kind of soup—less cutting; their honeycomb pattern is smaller and has a pleasanter texture. The small ones tend to have a more intense flavor.
I have found most kinds of mushrooms in the wild, but never a morel. If fresh morels are a glut in the kitchen, use 3 ounces (90