These are a dining-out habit of mine. Although I love to cook Vietnamese food, I also go out to restaurants for it. These noodles are a frequent first choice. Vivid tastes, colors, and textures each add their own notes in the orchestra of flavors that unravels with each bite. The palate-tickling sensation of the angel-hair fine rice noodles becomes even more stimulating once the sweet-tart-savory dressing loosens their tangled filaments. They revel in a contrast of crunchy cool vegetables, chewy slivers of warm pork, and toothsome herbs.

Most places offer a few variations on this noodle bowl, topping the vermicelli and vegetables with grilled shrimp, fried spring rolls, or charred beef slices. Arm yourself with chopsticks and explore the terrain of Vietnamese cuisine.