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4–6
Medium
Published 2019
I first had this dish in 1985 in a tiny village near Kars in the east of Turkey. I remember every moment of that day and I have been writing about this delicious discovery ever since. I was travelling with a Turkish colleague who could speak Kurdish as we were reporting in a region hit by rebel PKK groups in the dark of night. Our day had been tense as we had driven by burnt out vehicles, peppered with bullet holes, including two German-plated Volkswagen vans, and we were aware that we were
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