Udon or Soba Noodles in Broth

This is one of the simplest and most satisfying of all Japanese noodle soups. I like to make it for lunch on a cold winter day—it warms me up, and I usually have all the ingredients on hand, saving me a trip out into the cold. I never try to get fancy with this soup—it doesn’t need it—but I do like to vary it with strips of leftover meat or fish or pieces of fresh shrimp.

The broth is made by seasoning dashi with both light and dark soy sauces, mirin, and a little sugar. Alth