Robert Courtine, food critic for the Paris newspaper Le Monde, once wrote a tongue-in-cheek article about a society where the best and most flavorful fish were given to the slaves while the aristocracy insisted on eating insipid white-fleshed fish such as Dover sole and turbot. Courtine went on to extol the virtues of tasty fish such as mackerel and herring and wondered why these fish had fallen into such disrepute. My own theory is that too many of us have had them
