Garlic and Olive Oil Mayonnaise

My appetite for aïoli has become a physical craving. One broke summer in Paris I practically lived on the stuff, dolloping it on boiled potatoes and string beans, smearing it over the occasional sautéed fish, mopping it up with bread. . . . Such excess isn’t supposed to be good for you, but I always feel healthy and full of energy after aïoli, even when I’ve overdone it.

Aïoli is a mayonnaise made by stirring extra virgin olive oil into egg yolks and finely grou