A whole head of garlic cooked in the fire, with its smoky, creamy taste, is a fine addition to any roast or grilled meat or poultry. It can be presented by giving each person a few cloves as they are, or they can be taken out of their skins and mashed into the meat juices. This last, highly seasoned, is called a saupiquet. This is often eaten with game such as rabbit or hare, preferably cooked on a spit in front of a wood fire; it is also good with some birds – for instance duck or pheasant.
A saupiquet can also include the mashed poultry or game liver and a dash of vinegar mixed into the juices.
Heat the oven to 200°C. Tear some aluminium foil into 4 squares, each about 30 cm square. With a sharp knife cut the tops off 4 whole heads of garlic, removing just enough to expose the flesh at the top of each clove. Sprinkle them with olive oil, salt and pepper. Wrap each one in the foil. Place them on a roasting tin and bake for 20–30 minutes, until soft; take care not to let them brown too deeply or the taste will go from sweet to bitter.