Light Chicken Liver Pâté

Poultry here are strong, tall birds; my neighbour Madame Galy kept a popular, if ugly, red-feathered breed with bald necks, called cou-nu, that pecked and scratched, along with several ducks, beneath a couple of large fig trees. They taste wonderful.

When you buy a chicken in a good butcher in France, you are often choosing an individually reared bird; each is different. They may look rather bony, but they taste far and away better than the plump, soft-fleshed, mass-reared po