Poultry here are strong, tall birds; my neighbour Madame Galy kept a popular, if ugly, red-feathered breed with bald necks, called cou-nu, that pecked and scratched, along with several ducks, beneath a couple of large fig trees. They taste wonderful.
When you buy a chicken in a good butcher in France, you are often choosing an individually reared bird; each is different. They may look rather bony, but they taste far and away better than the plump, soft-fleshed, mass-reared poultry of the supermarkets. Their livers are particularly good – firm and bright – ideal for making this smooth pâté. Serve it with a green salad. Start marinating the livers several hours in advance, or leave them in the marinade overnight.