This is an easy recipe for those meals when you have to cook for large numbers. Our view of the Mediterranean diet is all about olive oil, garlic, tomatoes and fish, but not according to Jean-Claude le Masson, who made a collection of recipes from the French Mediterranean called La Cuisine littorale de nos aïeules (The Coastal Cuisine of our Ancestors). He includes a surprising number based not on olive oil but on crème fraîche, insisting that along the coast from the Italian frontier to the Spanish border, and even in Corsica, there are herds of cows kept in a traditional, non-intensive way. Their milk, he says, produces cream with an incomparable taste. Crème fraîche is certainly available everywhere.