For the citrus labne, line a colander with clean muslin or J-cloth, tip the yoghurt in and fold the cloth over the top. Place the colander on a soup bowl and leave in the fridge overnight to drain. Next day tip the drained yoghurt into a bowl and mix in the finely grated citrus peel and olive oil and, last, the juice from the lime. (The liquid that drains from the yoghurt can be used for a bread mix or thrown away.)
Mix all the herbs for the blackening mix together. Give the salmon a generous coating and leave to sit for 5 minutes. Get a heavy frying pan very hot, then put in the vegetable oil, put the salmon in immediately and cook for 90 seconds without moving it, flip and cook for another 90 seconds, then remove and leave in a warm place for 15 minutes. Halve the cooking times if you are using a tail cut.
Slice the salmon into 12 quite thin portions and serve with the labne and a crisp salad.
© 1997 Peter Gordon. All rights reserved.