While Justin North’s dishes at Bécasse are often quite complex creations, he also likes to show that French food can be light and simple. Tarte fine is the simplest of French tarts, a thin puff-pastry base covered with a sweet or savoury topping. Ready-rolled butter puff pastry is available from delis and supermarkets - it doesn’t get much simpler than that! Blue mackerel have a pretty silvery-blue skin and rich oily flesh; they aren’t as popular as they deserve to b