Loup à la Vapeur à la Compote d’Oranges et de citrons

Monsieur Dumas gets his sea bass from a fisherman friend at Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer in the Camargue. The delicious, fruity olive oil that it so important in such a simple recipe comes from Maître Cornille’s mill at Maussane. “Cooking loup in this way is not really cuisine,” Monsieur Dumas said modestly, “but if you’ve eaten it like this once, you’ll never want to have it any other way.”