Gigot d’Agneau et ses Tartelettes d’Ail

A gigot of lamb at Easter in Provence has always been as common as Christmas turkey, and is often the Sunday roast served in Provençal restaurants. The anchovies and garlic used to stud the lamb in this recipe are as traditional as the whole branches of sage leaves that were once used as whisks, to dip in the pan juices and baste the lamb as it roasted.

At the Mule-du-Pape the cook anoints each slice of lamb with several creamy spoonfuls of puréed baked garlic. This heady infusion i