Bouillabaisse d’Epinards

The Provençals believe, and not without justification, that Provence is the only place fit for habitation. Given a sunny year, when the mistral has been notable by its absence, they are an unusually amiable people. But not when it comes to Bouillabaisse and what goes into a ‘vrai Bouillabaisse’, that famous Bouillabaisse that grandmère used to make, Tempers fray, voices rise, and the only fish that can be agreed on (of the 25 or so possibilities) is the strange spiny rock fish called rascas