Cook the kipper fillets by baking with a knob of butter for 15–20 minutes in a medium oven, Gas 4 (350°F/180°C). Then mash up with a fork as much as possible. Put cream cheese, about 1 oz melted butter, a tablespoon of olive oil, 1 crushed large clove of garlic, the juice of ½ a large lemon, quite a lot of coarsely ground black pepper and the mashed kipper into a mixing bowl and mix all together very well indeed. Put into a small serving bowl (it looks nice in earthenware) and put in the fridge for an hour or so. Serve it as a first course with brown toast or like an American ‘dip’ at parties. This quantity will serve six or even eight but even if you give it to only four it usually gets eaten up because it really is good!