Crêpes Filled with Goat Cheese and Red Caviar

At the Auberge in the Valley, the cheese with which to stuff these crêpes is the Père Ernest, a soft, unctuous cream cheese of goats’ milk. On this side of the Atlantic there are now some good, soft goat cheeses in the fancy cheese shops—or, as a somewhat blander compromise, one could use the standard cream cheese. A good part of the attractive flavor comes from the grated Alpine Gruyère and the red caviar. These filled crepes make an excellent hot hors d’oeuvre, served as the first course