The Magnificent Mussel Soup of Jean and Pierre Troisgros

Sometimes, while I was staying at the Auberge, either Mademoiselle Ray or Mademoiselle Vivette would take the day off. (One of them, of course, would always stay home to “mind the store.”) Then, it would give me a special pleasure to take one of them to lunch or dine at a great restaurant of the central provinces in the area around Lyons. One Sunday we drove as far as Roanne to explore the marvelous menu of the Brothers Troisgros (whom I consider to be among the top half-dozen chefs of Fran