The story of Madame Ricard and her dissatisfaction with the aïoli prepared by Mademoiselle Ray at the Auberge. A few months after this unfortunate incident, I was in Provence and visited Madame Ricard, asking her to show me how she would prepare her “true Provençal aïoli,” the garlic mayonnaise that is virtually the symbol of Le Midi of southern France. Madame Ricard invited me to what she called “an authe