Mademoiselle Ray’s Leg of Mutton of the Seven Hours

This can, of course, be prepared with a leg of lamb, but there rather more of an aromatic flavor in the older flesh of the mutton, which can nowadays be ordered from specialty butchers. For this dish, it is boned and poached in dry white wine, with the flavorings of smoky bacon, aromatic vegetables and a knuckle of veal to enrich the sauce, which is finally flamed with Armagnac. The ideal accompaniment is a dish of the White Beans of Soissons and a fine bo