Tart of Fresh Raspberries Sealed in Cream

This French version of a fresh-fruit pie is only possible, in its most resplendent form, during the short spring season of fresh raspberries. (Discussion of Mademoiselle Ray’s techniques–menu with wines.) There are two secret tricks to the dazzling success of this dessert: first, the full flavor and freshness of the raspberries is preserved by simply not cooking them at all but layering them raw in the prebaked tart shell an