This irreverent name for a light-as-air, very restrained little deep-fried fritter has been shocking diners for almost 300 years. Some pastry chefs have tried to change it to “The Sigh of a Nun,” but the old classic name has stuck and is printed officially in all the major high cuisine reference cookbooks. It is a simple small pastry ball, as fluffy as a little puff of wind. Indeed, even a sigh might blow it off your plate! (See
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