Pastrami Grilled in Grape Leaves

Visit the Spice Market (also known as the Egyptian Market) in Istanbul and you’ll see long, tongue-shaped strips of spice-crusted orange-brown meat hanging from the shop rafters. This is basturma, the cured beef of the Near East and precursor (both historically and linguistically) of North American pastrami. Usually the meat for basturma is beef, although it is sometimes made with camel, and the spices—salt, pepper, coriander, and paprika—will be familiar to anyone who likes p