Saigon Garlic Lemongrass Wings

I’ve always found the best window into a nation’s cuisine to be its food markets. The moment I arrived in Saigon, I rushed to the colossal Ben Thanh market, located across the street from the hotel where I was staying. You can buy just about anything at Ben Thanh: eel, snake, all manner of innards, even grasshoppers. When you tire of shopping, an army of food vendors stands ready to ply you with Vietnamese soups, stews, and barbecue.

Here’s how one vendor prepares chicken wings; her