Rosemary-Grilled Pork Loin

For sixteen years Aiello Rosario and his wife, Luccia D’Ambrosio, of Florence, Italy, have turned their spotless white truck into a rotisserie. Their specialty is a whole pig that has been artfully boned, stuffed with a pungent paste of garlic and rosemary, and roasted over smoldering oak. I met the couple at the weekly market in the medieval town of San Gimignano near Siena. There, lines quickly formed for their herb-scented, meltingly tender pork sandwiches.

I’ve prepared this rec