Schoolyard Chicken Sates

The same impulse that sends American schoolchildren rushing out to Pizza Hut and McDonald’s when the lunch bell rings has the uniformed youngsters of Nat Monekugrasae High School in Bangkok heading to the saté stand of Suay and Pong Pochana. The Pochana sisters are just two among the twenty or so vendors who fill the stalls in the parking lot across the street from the school, but it’s their satés that the children seem to prefer above everything else.

Pong sits cross-legged on a ra