Spiced Grilled Quail

This recipe comes from what I call the barbecue belt of the former Soviet Union. Grilling plays a central role in the cuisines of the Central Asian republics of Turkmenistan, Tajikistan, and Uzbekistan. The quail here are popular in Uzbekistan, where according to the Russian scholar Darra Goldstein, the birds would be wrapped in pumpkin leaves and roasted in hot ashes. The garlic, cumin, and coriander marinade creates complex layers of flavor.

Goldstein, author of many books, includ