Here’s a dish for cooks with a penchant for theatrics. Freshly caught loup de mer (literally, wolf of the sea, corresponding to our sea bass) grilled over burning fennel stalks and dramatically flambéed at the tableside is the ultimate culinary showpiece of the French Riviera. It’s easy to make and impressive to serve. There are only two remotely challenging aspects to the recipe: finding whole fennel stalks and remembering to dry them ahead of time.
Fennel, a bulbous green-w