John Dory with Sauce Vierge

One of the best seafood restaurants on the Côte d’Azur bears the unlikely name of Bacon. This has less to do with a smoked meat that, on occasion, is used to enhance grilled fish than with the location of the restaurant, Bacon Point, on the Cap d’Antibes, overlooking the medieval city. Simplicity is the name of the game at Bacon (as it is at all great fish houses), and to this day I can still remember the taste of the perfectly grilled John Dory fish I had there served with a simple but equ