Spanish Guinean Fish Grill with Three Sauces

The Claris is one of the smartest hotels in Barcelona, an ultramodern hideaway with quiet, luxurious rooms nestled behind the ornate facade of a nineteenth-century mansion. It’s an odd place, to be sure, to begin an account of a fish barbecue from Equatorial Guinea. But it was here that I met Arsenio Pancho Sobe, doorman extraordinaire and passionate barbecue buff. Sobe is one of the 100,000 or so Guineans living in Spain, the former colonial ruler of Guinea.

Sobe comes from Malabo,