Grilled Skate Wings with Nonya Sweet-and-Sour Sauce

Meltingly tender, buttery, and crisp, these skate wings are the specialty of Mrs. Goh Choi Eng, owner of a cook stall on Gurney Drive in Penang. The fish receives a double barrage of flavor—first from a tangy basting sauce made from aromatic, locally grown cloves, then from a Malaysian sweet-and-sour sauce redolent of lemongrass, shallots, and chiles. If skate is impossible to find in your neighborhood, this is also delicious made with bluefish, swordfish, or halibut.

Nonya i