Grilled Octopus

If I were to pick the quintessential taste of the Greek islands, it would be this popular meze (appetizer). Octopus is one of those foods that seems to have been put on earth expressly for grilling: The fire brings out the sweetness of the delicate white meat, which in turn absorbs the flavors of olive oil, oregano, and charcoal without surrendering its own. Cleaning and tenderizing an octopus can be an intimidating process: Fortunately, virtually all the octopus sold in North America is cl