Fernando’s Grilled Cuttlefish with Macanese “Salsa”

Fernando Gomes knows a good thing when he sees it. When the Azores Islander landed in the early 1980s, in what was the Portuguese colony of Macao (soon to be part of China), it was love at first sight—and bite. So he did what many Portuguese do in Macao: He opened a restaurant. Behind a funky brick storefront is a spacious courtyard where guests dine under whirling paddle fans in an open-air pavilion. Fernando’s is located on the quietest of Macao’s islands, Coloane, and it backs up to Hac