Especially in summer I think this style of chilled soup is most refreshing, and it makes an ideal first course.

The best fruits to choose are those which are full flavoured and rather sharp – raspberries and cherries are excellent, as are tangy apples. Adjust the flavour with lemon juice and sugar to taste. Instead of wine or cider you can use light stock, and, of course, a mixture of fruits.

1. Put 750g (1½lb) raspberries in a saucepan over a gentle heat with 4 tablespoons lemon juice and 1–2 tablespoons sugar and stir well with a wooden spoon.

   

2. When the sugar dissolves and the juices just begin to run, purée with about 150ml (¼ pint) white wine or sweet cider. Press through a fine nylon sieve with a ladle.

   

3. Add another 300ml (½ pint) wine or cider and the strained juice of 1 orange and a handful of chopped fresh mint. Chill. Ladle into bowls and swirl with cream.