Gâteau de Pommes

The recipe that I selected here came from the manuscript cookbook of Mary Hamilton Winebrenner, whose recipe for Raisiné appears in the previous chapter. Old-style gâteau de pommes was something like stiff apple butter, although rose colored. It took roughly 2 hours to make, and you knew it was done only from having made it several times, which is something of a catch-22 situation.

Later in the nineteenth century, Sarah Tyson Rorer came out with a m