Cèpe and Walnut Cream Tarts

Twenty years ago, when self-taught chef Michel Bras was relatively unknown, this was his signature dish, and I loved it. Today, Bras is a Michelin three-star chef working in his home town, Laguiole, in the Aveyron, a magnificently savage rural area in the high pasturelands of the Aubrac Mountains. He gathers almost all his ingredients from the local countryside: crayfish and trout in the streams, lambs and calve