Snails with Country Ham and Garlic

This is a superb dish, happily free of all the problems usually associated with snails: heaviness, toughness, and the excuse to eat garlic, since, the myth goes, snails have no taste of their own. Snails do have flavor, though they do also need seasoning. But they needn’t be overwhelmed, and they should certainly not be boiled in garlic butter; boiling toughens them, butter makes the dish too heavy, and too much garlic obscures the flavor of the snails instead of enhancing it.

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