Goose Stew with Radishes

Daube d’Oie aux Radis

This is a modern version of a very old Gascon recipe for goose stew. For good reason, we associate geese with fat, but goose meat itself is lean, especially in the breast. In this recipe, the breast meat is actually larded to keep it juicy—the strips of fat are soaked first in Armagnac mixed with chopped garlic and herbs. The addition of radishes is new—they taste like peppery turnips when they are cooked. Salsify, turnips, carrots, and blanched baby onions can be prepared similarly and used as an alternative garnish for this daube. The daube requires long cooking, but the result is rich and satisfying. Noodles make a good accompaniment.

Like most good stews, this one is better reheated, so plan to make it 3 to 5 days in advance of serving.

Ingredients

  • 1 goose (10 to 12 pounds), preferably fresh
  • 3 tablespoons Armagnac
  • 1 teaspoon minced shallot
  • 1 teaspoon minced fresh flat-leaf parsley
  • ¼ teaspoon dried thyme, crumbled
  • ¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
  • 1 garlic clove, thinly sliced
  • 8 ounces pancetta, divided into 6 to 8 slices
  • Coarse kosher salt
  • Herb bouquet: 6 sprigs parsley, 1 sprig thyme, and 1 imported bay leaf tied together with string
  • 1 bottle (750 ml) full-bodied dry red wine such as California Petite Sirah or French Côtes-du-Rhône, or see A Few Words About the Local Wines for other choices
  • 2 medium onions, thinly sliced
  • 1 medium carrot, thinly sliced
  • 1 medium leek, white part, thinly sliced
  • cups unsalted chicken stock (storebought or homemade)
  • 4 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 2 teaspoons sugar
  • 3 to 4 dozen radishes, trimmed
  • Salt and freshly ground pepper
  • Chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Method

  1. Three days before serving, trim all fat and skin from the goose. Render the fat, let cool, then store in a covered jar in refrigerator.
  2. Combine the Armagnac, shallots, parsley, thyme, nutmeg, and garlic in large bowl; mix well. Add the slices of pancetta and toss to coat with the marinade.
  3. Cut up the goose, using a boning knife. Cut down the center breast to the bone. Guiding the knife along the breast, pull the meat back and lift it from bone in one piece. Sever the legs and thighs at the joints. Cut the meat off the bone and trim off any fat or gristle. Cut the goose meat into 1½-inch chunks.
  4. Remove the pancetta from the marinade; set the marinade aside. Cut the slices crosswise into thin strips. With a thin, sharp knife, pierce a hole in center of each chunk of meat. Fill the holes with the pieces of pancetta. Add the goose meat to the marinade. Add 1 tablespoon salt and toss lightly. Let marinate for 2 nights in the refrigerator.
  5. Meanwhile, peel the goose gizzard. Rinse the gizzard and heart and place in a deep bowl. Crack the carcass, wings, and neck into very small pieces. Add the cracked bones and herb bouquet to gizzard and heart. Pour the wine over all and refrigerate overnight to marinate. Reserve the liver for pâté or some other use.
  6. The following morning, heat 1½ tablespoons reserved rendered goose fat in a large deep pot over moderate heat. Add the onions and carrot and sauté until browned, 5 to 10 minutes. Tilt the pot and press lightly on the vegetables with a slotted spoon to release the fat. Blot the fat with paper towels. Return the pot to moderate heat. Add the leeks, marinated bones, herb bouquet, gizzard, and heart with the wine marinade. Slowly bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and cook until the liquid is reduced to ½ cup, 3 to 4 hours, skimming often. (This can also be done in a slow cooker or in the oven.)
  7. Add 8 cups chicken stock to the pot. If necessary, add water to cover. Bring to a boil over moderate heat. Reduce the heat and simmer, skimming frequently, for 3 to 4 more hours, until the stock is reduced to 3 cups. Strain the stock through a sieve. Refrigerate until the fat hardens on the surface. Scrape off and discard the fat.
  8. Early on the day you plan to serve the dish, pat the goose meat dry with paper towels. Heat a large, deep skillet over moderately high heat. Add 3 tablespoons of the rendered goose fat. Add half the goose meat and sauté, turning, until browned, about 10 minutes. Tilt the pan and blot all excess fat with paper towels. Repeat with more fat and the remaining goose meat. Pour out excess fat and return all the meat to the pan. Add the reduced stock and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer gently until the meat is very tender but not falling apart, 2 to 2½ hours.
  9. Remove the meat to a side dish. Degrease the stock and pour it into a saucepan. Bring to a boil, set the saucepan half on the heat and cook at a slow boil, skimming, for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the sauce is thick enough to coat the meat. Pour the sauce over the pieces of goose. (The recipe can be prepared to this point up to 6 hours in advance and refrigerated.)
  10. About 30 minutes before serving, remove any fat from the surface of the stew. Place the goose and sauce in a large skillet. Slowly reheat to a simmer.
  11. Meanwhile prepare vegetable garnish: In another large skillet, combine the remaining ½ cup chicken stock with the butter and sugar over high heat. Add the radishes, cover, and cook until crisp-tender, about 5 minutes; do not let the radishes burn. Uncover and shake the skillet to glaze the radishes. Drain, discarding any liquid.
  12. Add the glazed radishes to the goose stew and simmer for 5 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Transfer to a large serving dish or platter. Sprinkle with parsley and serve.
Inspired by a recipe from the late Jean-Louis Palladin.
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