Civet of Hare

In 1983, I was asked by the New York Times Travel Section to describe my most memorable bistro meal in Paris. It wasn’t difficult—the memory of one of the most famous dishes of the French Southwest had been with me for years, and it was a delight to share it. This is what I wrote:

Basically my favorite bistro is L’Ami Louis. The floor is concave, as if thousands of people have trod back and forth. There are long tables, and the feeling is like a mess hall. The walls