Sautéed Eggplant, The "Cèpes of the Poor"

The texture of cooked eggplant is mushroomlike and its color and appearance, bright and alive, but, of course, it lacks the delicate flavor of the real thing. Try frying slices in duck fat as an accompaniment to duck, pork, or chicken, or as a substitute for cèpes in Lucien Vanel’s Chicken, Potato, and Artichoke Cake or in the Duck Leg Ragout With Green Olives and Eggplant. Then, as French Southwest cooks sugge