Cèpes Sautéed in Oil in the Style of Bordeaux

It was a hundred years ago that the fashionable Café Anglais first introduced cèpes à la Bordelaise to Paris, a dish in which these wild forest mushrooms and garlic were cooked in oil. This was before the interest in provincial cookery, and the special combination of cèpes and oil was not particularly appreciated by the gourmets of the capital. Instead, the chefs starting cooking the cèpes in butter, a tradition still carried on today.

Auguste Colombié, the great nineteenth-c