Leeks Cooked in their Own Juices "Under a Bed of Ashes"

There is a town called Mirepoix in the Ariège, whose name will be familiar to students of French cooking, since it is also the name of the finely diced vegetable base of so many French sauces and stews. It was near there that I first tasted young leeks roasted in dying embers, then peeled and served with a garlic and herb vinaigrette. These succulent leeks were a revelation of simplicity and pleasure. Their flavor is very intense and a great improvement over leeks boiled or steamed. Serve l