Michel Bras’s Stuffed Onions

After the cooking of southwest france was first published, I kept running into people who felt that I should have included a recipe from their favorite chef. One afternoon in the Languedoc, a very serious gourmet—a doctor and vintner whose opinion I greatly respected—told me about a brilliant new chef at work in a remote village in the mountains of Southwest France.

“This one, ” he told me, “Michel Bras