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6
Medium
Published 2003
In this homely stew, an elegance of concept bordering on the philosophical shows the French spirit operating with perfect clarity and physical assurance. Blanquette de veau is the serene Apollonian yin to the dark Dionysiac winy tension of boeuf bourguignon. I’ve picked blanquette because it stands apart from most stews, those hearty, burly lads of which boeuf bourgignon is the beau idéal. Blanquette stands by itself, a white goddess in a swarthy rabble. Goddess? Maybe milkmaid would