Cannelloni

An elegant neighbor lady invites us to dinner every other year and always serves cannelloni with a spinach-and-ricotta stuffing. Does she think we won’t remember? If so, she is wrong twice over. She slights our memories and the high quality of her (only?) party dish. For me, cannelloni, literally big tubes, are among the finest of all pasta dishes. It would be folly to say that they are the best pasta dish Italy has to offer, but they epitomize this crucial category of Italian food at its h